Off to a good start

Photo Credit: Matthew Phillips

Right, time for some retrospective catch-up on the blog.  Prior to my premature departure from KEP late January, when I last wrote from the South in November, I was on the RRS JCR heading northwards from Signy.

I finally made it to KEP on 25^th November, and absolutely love it.  The above photo is our official Christmas card to other Antarctic bases.  We’d had a festive dump of snow (not uncommon, even in summer) and had just finished decorating the church.  Merry with mulled wine we were coaxed outside for the shot, but a snowball fight was inevitable.  Unfortunately the first throw hit the camera lens dead on!

Before I get onto more about life at KEP, a catch up on the last part of my journey:

Leaving Signy

The sights leaving Signy were just as breathtaking as the journey in had been.  I rose early the morning we left the Coronation Islands and was treated to a glorious sunrise with the ever changing light dancing over the sea-ice, icebergs and glaciers.

Coronation Islands after dawn

As the ship slowly nudged itself through the ice, floes would be disturbed and turned.  This would throw the krill up from underneath, stranding them on the ice: easy pickings for Snow Petrels. Seemingly hundreds were following the ship, swooping down to get their feed.

Snow Petrels following the JCR

After watching the spectacle for over an hour I retreated inside for a warming brew.  Hardy Ian (Bird Island - Tech Services) stayed and was rewarded with a sighting of several leopard seals on the floes.  They were stalking Adélie penguins, by far my favourite penguins to date.  They are such comical creatures and seemed to be roused into a panicked scurry by our ship disturbing the ice, whilst the Chinstraps stood their ground coolly and defiantly.  

Run Adelie, run!

Whales!

James (Seal Biologist,Bird Island - see link to his blog in the sidebar) had proved himself a reliable spotter on the journey South, calling out distant blows from whales a good mile away.  We'd all been thrilled to see these.  So I was excited again to hear a cry of ‘whales!’ go out whilst the JCR was stationary conducting science.  A group of humpbacks was seen passing 400m from the ship, then slowly circled nearer as if coming to investigate what noisy things we were doing.  They stayed with us for over an hour, coming almost within touching distance.  Absolutely magical and such a privilege to see.

A humpback slowly circling the JCR

Rather fantastically some humpbacks came into Cumberland Bay in January – close enough to see them blow and breach without binoculars.  A cruise ship had reported scores of whales feeding south of us too earlier in the week.

Science!

One of the privileges of hitching a ride to South Georgia on the JCR was getting to learn about some of the science undertaken onboard.  A suite of instruments collects oceanographic data, and the ship stops at various stations to allow biological and chemical sampling instruments to be lowered to depths of 3000m.  It was lovely to witness scientists from diverse backgrounds getting excited about each others work: who knew geology and marine biology shared so much in common!

Retrieving Bongo Net samples - watched by whales

Bird Island

Leaving BI bathed in moonlight

I was fortunate to have an unscheduled opportunity to visit Bird Island on the last leg of my JCR journey.  This is the smallest winter BAS base and is perched on an island at the northerly tip of South Georgia.  After waiting out some stormy weather, I went ashore with the relief party.  It was great to meet the rest of the BI team face-to-face (I’d sailed south with Tim, James, Ian and Jerry) as I provide telemedicine support to them.  I helped unload the med supplies, and familiarised myself with their limited medical capabilities. Whilst awaiting the next cargo load we were shown the main albatross study area.  These birds really have to be seen to appreciate their enormity!  Some fledglings were still around, and we were treated to a courting ritual from two adults.

Young Albatross

Have a look at some blogs from the BI team in the sidebar

Arrival at King Edward Point (KEP) - my home for (I'd hoped) a year

KEP station, RRS JCR moored at jetty and Grytviken across the cove.  From Hope Point

We sailed overnight from BI towards KEP and I headed up to the Monkey Deck as we approached Cumberland Bay in the morning.  Though the weather wasn’t playing ball, even in the rain my new home looked pretty spectacular.  As we rounded Hope Point and came into the cove I understood why this place has such an alluring appeal (and damn I miss it as I recover in the UK!).  

Once alongside a Government Officer (Simon) came aboard and briefed us all on biosecurity procedures for going ashore, and that was it – I’d arrived!  I joined the rest of KEP team and was straight into relief operations for the next 48hrs.  The JCR performs the main supply run for KEP once a year.  This year’s cargo included two new RIBs (Molly and Sooty), huge crates of electrical and construction equipment, and enough dry and frozen food to last us a good year.  Unloading the food crates and stocking the shelves was a true team effort.  Also a good opportunity to learn what food we have and where – we were all a bit perturbed by the quantity of tinned rhubarb we got!

Cereal for a year all unloaded and neatly stacked

It was strangely moving seeing the JCR leave.  After almost 3 weeks it had begun to feel like home, but now it was time to start over and get to know my new home at KEP and Grytviken.  And what a place to call home!

I’ll try to catch up over the next few blogs with more details of life on base, but first a word about:

Christmas

With a cruise ship in on Christmas Day, we had our main celebrations together on the island on Christmas Eve.  Things kicked off with a football match against the crew of the South Georgia Fishing Patrol Vessel, Pharos.  The football pitch is a challenging playing surface of moss-bog and stony uneven ground, and injuries were inevitable. Luckily my sprained ankle was only sore for a few days.

After the match a carol service was held in the church, with Matthew-museum providing excellent organ accompaniment.  GO Pat Lurcock read an amusing KEP/Grytviken version of ‘Twas the Night before Christmas’ whilst more mulled wine was drunk.  In the evening everyone came to Everson (the BAS home) for a buffet, drinks and Christmas quiz.

Christmas Day itself was a relaxing and gloriously lazy occasion.  The sun was out, and it was warm enough out of the wind for shorts and t-shirts.  The building team (also known as PANTS - Pecker’s Antarctic Services) obliged once more with a BBQ.  Spit roast Falklands lamb, and for me some yummy grilled corn and veg kebabs.

BBQ in the sun with white wine - what more can you want on Christmas Day! 

Me at Hope Point on Christmas Day

  

I’ve posted links to some of my colleagues blogs in the sidebar – do have a look, there are some great photos and stories there!